October to December 2017

For this part of my travels I am more-or-less following what was once called the Moyobamba Route. In the 1800s this was the only trade route between Peru's Pacific coast and the Amazon River. There are several old books written by people who traveled this route by muleback in the 1800s and early 1900s. I am writing a book on the route using both historical accounts and my own experiences. I plan to self-publish it on Amazon around July or August. Here you get to see the illustrations!

Coming up ... Cajamarca, Celendin, the Kuelap ruins, and more ...

Click on any town name or photo to see photos from that place.


Cajamarca is one of the most historical cities in South America. This is where the Spanish under Francisco Pizarro captured the Incan leader Atahualpa, which lead to the defeat of the Inca Empire. Since then it has been the most important city in the northern mountains of Peru. It was an important stop on the old Moyobamba Route.

Cumbre Mayo

The Cumbre Mayo is an area of unusual rock formations in the mountains above Cajamarca. There is also a 3,000 year old irrigation canal.

Hacienda Maichil

Three wonderful days at the rural Hacienda Maichil.

San Pablo and Kuntur Wasi

San Pablo is a pretty little town just north of the Hacienda Maichil. It has two claims to fame.


The town of Contumaza was once an important regional center and first mountain town on the Moyobamba Route. Modern roads have bypassed it and the town feels stuck in the past. And, it is cold.


Like Contumza, Cascas was bypassed by modern roads. But Cascas is at a much lower and warmer elevation. In recent decades vineyards and wine-making have revived the town's economy.


Trujillo was the most important city in northern Peru and the original starting point on the Pacific end for the Moyobamba route. It was a very wealthy city in colonial times and is filled with history. There's also a decrepit toy museum.

Casa Grande

Casa Grande is one of the main towns in the sugar-growing Chicama Valley, about 30 miles north of Trujillo. There is a lot of fascinating history which will be in my book.


The highlight of my few days in Lima was a visit to the world-reknown Larco Museum.